30 Jun A Traveler’s Guide To The Inti Raymi Festival In Cusco, Peru
I write this aboard our flight from Cusco. It’s the 25th of June, and yesterday was the 2018 Inti Raymi festival – FYI the second biggest annual festival in South America (after Rio’s glitzy Carnival which takes place every February). The memories are still fresh, and I’m simultaneously editing our Inti Raymi InstaStory (I like to stay busy whilst flying 😉 so expect an energetic and (probably) over-zealous post.
Let’s start with some history…
If Inti Raymi means nothing to you, then we need to fill you in, because this is one special festival that dates back to Inca times, around 900 years ago. A real Inca Emperor would praise the Sun God (the most celebrated God in the Inca religion); his queen, his confidants, and hundreds of soldiers and tribe members from neighbouring regions would parade around Cusco – the ‘centre of the world’ according to the Incas (also home to Machu Picchu); and the climax of the day – a real llama would be sacrificed as the final ‘gift’ given to the Sun God to thank him for his generosity, and to read into the next year’s fortune by looking at the llama’s entrails.
Today (and since 1944 when the Inti Raymi festival was reinstated, after the Spanish prohibited it during their conquest in the 1500s), over a thousand dancers, actors and soldiers perform for the festival, meaning that the entire modern festival is a theatrical piece (just in case you were panicking that you’d have to watch a cute, furry llama’s heart get displayed, you can rest assured that only wool and clumps of grass will be the “sacrifice”). Take note: the soldiers that parade throughout the day, however, are very real, so don’t be giving any of them any funny looks.
The Inti Raymi festival itself is a celebration of the Sun (“Inti” meaning “Sun God” and “Raymi” meaning “Festival”) and the timing of the festival is set around the Winter Solstice on June 21st (although, according to the Incas, the sun doesn’t actually move between June 21st and June 24th), so June 24th has been set as the official day, two days after the Inca New Year, which happens on June 22nd each year (hope that’s not too many dates for ya?)
What you can expect on the day…
As you can imagine, there are huge crowds that swarm upon this small-ish city just outside the Sacred Valley – and no matter where you end up watching the three-part festival, you’ll be surrounded by people. Needless to say, keep your belongings closer than your enemies, and try stay patient. Photography will be difficult with so many selfie sticks and taller-than-you individuals blocking your view, but if you get to each location early, and secure your spot, you’re bound to get in on the action.
Phase 1 – Coricancha
We recommend hanging out by the Santo Domingo church, a mere 2 minute walk from the Palacio Del Inka Hotel. You can purchase a little chair and sit (or stand) on it, awaiting the Emperor’s first prayer (which you’ll see perfectly against a blue sky). The parade will then walk straight past you, so if you’re on the road like we were, you’ll be so close to the action, you may as well be in the parade.
Phase 2 – Plaza de Armas
This was a difficult one for us, as we struggled to get a good view, no matter where we tried to stand – there were simply too many people everywhere. If, however, you make a quick transition from the first phase of the festival, you may just find yourself a spot overlooking the Portal Belen church, and with a good zoom lens, you’ll get to capture the golden statue (which the Emperor praises here). In hindsight, we probably would’ve benefitted from those little chairs on sale, as we could have stood high above the crowds to see more of the dancers in the street, but it was not a big concern, as phase 3 was the part we really wanted to be prepared for.
Phase 3 – Sacsayhuaman
Besides having a name that sounds like “sexy womaaan”, this fortress is the final destination for the festival’s performance (and there’s also real llamas for your selfie pleasure). The choreography is superb, and as you sit in your seat (we recommend the front row of the orange section) surrounded by monolithic stone and a performance fit for real kings, you’ll really ask yourself why on Earth you didn’t attend this remarkable South American experience before.
How to dress and what to pack…
Let’s be honest – can you really wear anything other than a poncho to the Inti Raymi festival!? Mmm, we thought so too. You can pick one up at any of the markets around Cusco or in the Sacred Valley of the Incas – your Luxury Collection concierge at any of the Peruvian resorts, will be able to advise on the one closest to you – and you can go even further and adorn your head and hands with colourful headbands, beanies and bracelets (although with the sun so strong, and your closeness to the sun at 11,000ft we highly recommend wearing a hat all day). Sunblock is also a must, and it goes without saying, that you’ll need plenty of water throughout the day, as the air is very dry, and spending six hours in the sun is bound to make anyone a little parched.
You’ll be able to buy food (at phase 2) at any of the restaurants on Plaza de Armas but they might be super full, so maybe opt for some street food – guinea pig, pork, corn, and churros are hugely popular at the festival, and, well, #WhenInPeru
Where to stay…
You’re going to want to be close to the action, so, as mentioned before, you cannot get closer than the Palacio Del Inka Hotel, a mere two minute walk from the festival’s first phase. What’s also great with staying at this historical resort, is that the masseuses will be waiting to give you a deep tissue massage once you return from your tiring day in the sun, and the Rumi bar inside the hotel, will serve you enough Pisco Sour to make the festivities continue long after you’ve changed from your poncho and freshened up.
Why you need to attend the festival…
If we (and our photos) haven’t convinced you enough, then just know this: we’ve been to countless of festivals in 51 countries, and this has to go down as one of our favourites. The music, the colour, the costumes, the theatrical poise, the time in the sun in the Andes, the people, the food…well, it’s all just magical. Trust us on this (and if you do happen to go, won’t you tag #howfarfromhome in the pic? We’d love to see how you experienced it!)
Here’s a few more pics to convince you:
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